Dishing with Tony: Author of 'Kitchen Confidential' brings his latest book to Kepler's Dishing with Tony: Author of 'Kitchen Confidential' brings his latest book to Kepler's (June 04, 2003)

By Jane Knoerle
Almanac Lifestyles Editor

From his opening line -- "This is the closest I'll ever get to being a rock-and-roll star," as he adjusted the mike -- chef, author and generally cool guy Anthony Bourdain had the audience in the palm of his hand when he appeared May 28 at Kepler's Books in Menlo Park.

Mr. Bourdain, best known as the author of "Kitchen Confidential," the behind-the-scenes tale of the restaurant industry, was in Menlo Park to promote his third novel, "The Bobby Gold Stories" (Bloomsbury, $19.95).

In 12 segments, "The Bobby Gold Stories" explores the restaurant underworld to tell the story of an ex-con night club bouncer and a hard-luck saute cook. "It's a love story," quips Mr. Bourdain.

"There's a considerable overlap between professional gangsters and cooks -- it's a world I know about," he adds.

Instead of reading from "The Bobby Gold Stories," Mr. Bourdain chatted informally and answered questions from the audience. Most had read "Kitchen Confidential" and "A Cook's Tour," and were fans of his television program, "A Cook's Tour," which appears on the Food Network.

Michael Price of Menlo Park, president of a computer consultant firm, said he came to hear Mr. Bourdain because "I always wanted to write a detective novel and I hope to pick up some pointers on how someone can change careers [from chef to author]."

Kelli Holt talked her stepfather Paul Bischoff into driving 65 miles from Tracy to hear Tony Bourdain because she loved "Kitchen Confidential."

One fan darted up to Mr. Bourdain and kissed him soundly on the mouth while her companion snapped their picture.

This was Mr. Bourdain's third appearance at Kepler's. He started his talk right on time and seemed to be enjoying himself.

Tony Bourdain was born in New York City, graduated from a private all-boys high school, and started in the restaurant business at 17, washing dishes at a Cape Cod seafood shack. "That was the first time I cared what anyone else thought about me. Twenty-eight years later here I am."

He later dropped out of Vassar College and earned a degree from the Culinary Institute of America in 1978. For 10 years he cooked on the restaurant circuit in New York.

He also wrote two unsuccessful crime novels -- "Bone in the Throat" and "Gone Bamboo" -- in the mid-1990s, which have been published since he became a best-selling author.

"Kitchen Confidential" evolved from an article Mr. Bourdain sold to the New Yorker magazine exposing some of the inner secrets of the restaurant business. That article, which his mother urged him to send to the magazine, led him to write the book, which became a best seller.

His second nonfiction book, "A Cook's Tour," is the basis for the television show for which he travels the world in search of the perfect meal.

Is there a perfect meal? It depends on the time, the place, who you are with, what you see out the window, he says. When pressed as to his favorite meal, he mentions roasted veal bones with marrow, a bit of sea salt and some crusty bread.

His worst meal? His response -- "a 12-course vegan dinner in Berkeley" -- drew laughs from the audience.

The happiest segment of "A Cook's Tour" was his visit to Puebla, Mexico. "All my cooks are from there. We were served fresh food made with love. It was one of the greatest moments of my life. All the moms in Mexico can cook better than anything you'll find in a Mexican restaurant in the states."

A highlight of his cook's tour was a visit to the French Laundry restaurant in Yountville, which he called "the best restaurant in the whole damn world. That's the mountaintop."

Where does he like to eat in San Francisco? He ticked off Swans Oyster Depot, Cobalt Grill, Gary Danko, and Red's Java House, a hamburger joint on the water.

Tony Bourdain is executive chef of Les Halles brasserie in New York City. "That's like Joe Louis after retirement. Just stand in the restaurant and say hello." While he no longer cooks professionally, his heart is still in the kitchen. "There's no happier time than sitting at the bar at midnight, talking shop with the other cooks," he says.

For those considering becoming a chef, his advice is: Sure, go to college, go to culinary school, but before you decide on your life's profession, get a job as a dishwasher for six months. "It's as least as valuable as college."

He calls the world of cooking "a meritocracy. All are invited."

As to his writing, he says: "I'm delighted the general public likes my books, but I don't understand why. When I write I think, 'Will this amuse my fry cook?'"

After hours

Diners at Marche in Menlo Park had a chance to schmooze with best-selling author Anthony Bourdain May 28 when he dropped by the restaurant after his appearance at Kepler's Books.

Mr. Bourdain, who was on a 10-day circuit to tout his latest book, "The Bobby Gold Stories," told the Marche staff he was glad to be back in the restaurant atmosphere where he felt right at home.

Lee Isgur, Marche's co-owner, greeted the author while owner-chef Howard Bulka was putting finishing touches on late dinners.

There were no speeches or introductions, but Mr. Bourdain, wine glass in hand, made his way through the restaurant and stopped to chat at almost every table. He also ducked out frequently to smoke a cigarette.

For guests who had after-dinner reservations Mr. Bulka put together a menu of appetizers, salads and desserts.

Grilled prawns were served with curried mayonnaise on a bed of coleslaw with a tangy citrus dressing. The beautifully presented cheese plate included a selection of four delicious cheeses, apple and pecans.

Desserts ranged from a white chocolate ice cream cake to a honey almond frozen parfait with candied fruits and raspberries.

Mr. Bulka is planning future events with Kepler's, including a 10 p.m. supper on Friday, June 20, to welcome the arrival of the fifth book in the Harry Potter series.

When guests reserve for dinner they may order one or more copies of the book to be delivered directly to their table at 12 :01 a.m. on June 21.