On the trail of black culture in Paris On the trail of black culture in Paris (June 09, 2004)

By Henry Organ

My sister, Claudesta Organ Gould, and I recently spent a week in Paris, our favorite city.

The visit was made exceptionally enjoyable by a longtime friend, Ricki Stevenson, and her daughter Dedie, who have resided there for several years. Ricki was raised in East Palo Alto, and is a graduate of Menlo-Atherton High School. Her parents, Joanne and Isaac Stevenson, still live in East Palo Alto. Ricki took Dedie, now in her teens, to Paris several years ago to immerse her in French and international cultures. She is succeeding on both fronts.

Ricki has established a very successful tour business there called "Black Paris Tours." Her venues focus on the innumerable sites associated with prominent Africans and African-Americans in Paris, especially since World War I. It is truly educational, and inspiring to those, like me, interested in the Black Diaspora. Expected examples include where Josephine Baker performed, where Booker T. Washington spoke, where Richard Wright lived at one time, the haunts of James Baldwin, where Frederick Douglass visited, and so on.

Also high on Ricki's list of priorities are businesses owned and operated by Africans and African-Americans. One such establishment is a restaurant named Percy's, where we had lunch one day, and met Percy. Percy, an expatriate of the U.S., is a graduate of one of the celebrated culinary schools in Paris. The cuisine is understandably a combination of French and African-American dishes.

Percy's is a favorite place for expatriates. It is cozy, and requires reservations--given the limited seating. In fact, the day we were there, all the guests were from the states, which probably prompted the entertainer/vocalist (also an expatriate) to strike up "Lift Ev'ry Voice and Sing," also known as the "Negro National Anthem." It was sung heartily by the guests, and with all promptly standing on their feet.

Ricki also took us to a dinner party one evening, hosted by an expatriate. The guests were more expatriates, including a lady from Guyana, and two spouses. My sister and I, plus one gentlemen, were the only residents of the states in the party of a dozen or so people. Most of the guests were involved in the arts and literature, so those subjects dominated the conversation.

It was interesting, at least to me, that there was absolutely no mention of the United States or Iraq, which I thought would be topics discussed with vigor. I was expecting there to be lengthy, harsh condemnation of President Bush's policies, and was looking forward to getting the perspectives of expatriates. Nothing. Perhaps that is the message or essence of their feelings. It was golden.

Ricki has a professional background in television. So, it is also timely to note that she and a colleague have been working on a documentary of African-American soldiers who participated in the Normandy invasion, which is being celebrated this month. My sister and I had hoped to go to Normandy, particularly to Utah and Omaha beaches, but could not fit it into a tight schedule. We shall do that next time.

Henry Organ lives in Menlo Park and is a member of the Almanac's Panel of Contributors. His sister, Claudesta Organ Gould, lives in Los Angeles.

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