Food & Drink: A tale of two Bentleys Food & Drink: A tale of two Bentleys (August 04, 2004)

Two restaurants, one in Woodside, the other in Redwood City, give John Bentley a chance to showcase his "New American" cooking

By Jane Knoerle
Almanac Lifestyles Editor

Will it be dinner at John Bentley's of Woodside or John Bentley's of Redwood City? Take your pick. You can double your pleasure now that the genial restaurateur has his latest venture at 2915 El Camino Real, Redwood City, up and running.

After nine years of leasing property in Woodside, Mr. Bentley decided it was time to own his own place. Two years ago he bought the Fabbro restaurant property from the Fabbro family.

It was his intention to close the Woodside restaurant and reopen in Redwood City.

At the time he told the Almanac, "After some cosmetic improvements and rebuilding the bar, the new restaurant would open the first of the year (2003)."

Hah. After dealing with countless permits, rules and regulations, the Fabbro building was taken "down to the studs" and totally remodeled, including a new kitchen, bathrooms, and reconfiguring of space. The handsome new restaurant just opened eight weeks ago.

Meanwhile, listening to the pleas of his longtime Woodside customers, Mr. Bentley decided he could keep both businesses running.

The two restaurants are decidedly different -- Woodside: cozy, quaint and quiet; Redwood City: hot, high-style and full of buzz. But both serve outstanding "New American" food in a friendly atmosphere.

The food looks as good as it tastes. The signature wild salmon, featured in both restaurants, resembles an abstract painting with colorful ribbons of essence of basil, beets and tomatoes.

The watermelon, avocado, and deviled Dungeness crab could grace a magazine cover. And we haven't even mentioned the desserts.

Chef Bentley's desserts, many served with homemade ice cream, such as sun-dried cherry or cinnamon, helped make his reputation in Woodside.

Many dishes proved so popular that he quips, "I had to move to Redwood City to be able to change the menu. Every time I dropped an item in Woodside, six or seven customers would complain."

These days Mr. Bentley is cooking in Redwood City, but his staff, most of whom have been with him since the restaurant opened, remain in Woodside. Tom Stevenin, his former sous chef, is now executive chef.

"I adore that place in Woodside. And they (the staff) are taking care of the place like it's their own," says Mr. Bentley.

John Bentley's, Woodside

Lunching at the Woodside restaurant last week, we found that only a few tables were occupied, which made for a relaxed atmosphere and easy conversation. Our server, Hillary Mummert, who has been with Bentley's for five years, said this time of year is always quiet, since many Woodsiders are up at "The Lake" or otherwise on vacation.

A friend and I shared one of the best salads I've ever tasted: baby spinach with grilled peaches, prosciutto, goat cheese and toasted pine nuts ($8). It could have easily served as an entree.

The broiled salmon with sauteed spinach and tarragon port sauce ($19) was cooked perfectly. Presentation was beautiful, but the port sauce was too sweet for me.

My friend gave me a taste of her pork tenderloin with wild mushroom ragout, garlic mashed potatoes, and acorn squash ($16). Very good.

Dessert at Bentley's has to be banana napoleon with chocolate and caramel sauce ($7) for me, but coffee ice cream profiteroles with hot fudge and toasted almonds ($7) or lemon pudding cake with chocolate whipped cream ($7) could make a low-carb dieter lose it completely.

John Bentley's, Redwood City

It took almost two years to complete the Redwood City restaurant, which now has a new exterior and interior. It would hardly be recognized as the old Fabbro's, which was a family-operated Italian restaurant for three generations.

Rich paneling, deep green and gold walls and upholstered gold banquettes make a sophisticated setting with seating for 100, plus seating for 20 in the bar. A private room upstairs seats 60.

The restaurant was packed when four of us dined there on a Wednesday night. I ordered the hazelnut-crusted softshell crabs ($22). The rest of our party chose wild salmon with swiss chard ($22); pan-fried pork chop with apple and wild mushroom ragout ($18); and "poulet two-way," breast, confit leg, green beans and shallots ($18).

All the portions were generous and attractively presented. After sampling everyone's choices, I was disappointed in my softshell crab. I've never had softshell crab in California that tasted as sweet as those on the East Coast, although Mr. Bentley says the crabs are flown in from Chesapeake Bay.

The pork chop was thick and luscious, but looked a little lonely on the plate. A few green veggies would have helped. Both chicken and salmon were excellent.

We shared a peach tart with cinnamon ice cream that had us scraping up every bite. Much of John Bentley's reputation is based on his fine desserts, and he knows it. "It's the last thing you eat. The last shot I have at you," he says.

Mr. Bentley is still cooking at the new restaurant, but says having extra staff frees him to get out to talk to the customers. "It's not what I want, it's what you want (that makes a restaurant successful). For instance, women have told me they want more entree salads."

Right now, with two fine restaurants, John Bentley is in a very good place. Can he keep both going? "I'd really like to. That's what my dream would be." Meanwhile, "I get to have fun with food," he says, "and I love people to death."

John Bentley's restaurant, 2915 El Camino Real, Redwood City. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. Telephone: 365-7777.

John Bentley's, 2991 Woodside Road, Woodside. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch, Tuesday-Saturday for dinner. Telephone: 851-4988.

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