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Publication Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 Destinations: Kerala -- Land of spice and delight
Destinations: Kerala -- Land of spice and delight
(September 29, 2004) This small Indian state on the Arabian Sea offers a dazzling array of experiences for the traveler
By John Flood
Special to the Almanac
If you are hesitant about traveling to India, I urge you to re-consider.
Because there's an exquisite place on the southwest coast of the sub-continent called Kerala. Taking the time to explore it for 10 days could be your trip of a lifetime.
Rated one of the top destination spots in the world by National Geographic Traveler magazine, this small Indian state on the Arabian Sea offers a dazzling variety of travel experiences: from sun-drenched beaches to cool, refreshing hikes in the Western Ghats at 7,000 feet.
It's a great place to explore ancient Hindu temples, centuries-old Christian churches, and even a 400-year-old synagogue. Or, you can relax on a Kerala-style wooden houseboat and cruise the Kerala backwaters with your personal cook.
The local Kerala cuisine, with its subtle blends of spices and herbs, will dazzle you.
And when it comes to the arts, Kerala culture has much to offer. For a start, spend an evening watching the sublime expressions of a Kathakali dance performance. This traditional dance form of Kerala will take your breath away.
Or, rejuvenate yourself. Kerala offers the ancient ayurvedic oil massage and yoga for a range of stress-related ailments.
Best of all, you can do this without spending a fortune.
First stop: Trivandrum
The capital of Kerala, Trivandrum is like every Indian city: noisy, crowded and polluted. But, it's worth starting your Kerala journey here for a several reasons: it has an incredible temple, an exquisite palace and some wonderful examples of British architecture.
And, there's Kovalam Beach on the Arabian Sea, one of the best resort areas in Kerala.
If you see nothing else in Trivandrum, visit the Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple and the Purthe Maliga Palace, or Horse Palace, adjacent to it.
Located in the original East Fort area, this temple complex is one of the finest examples of Dravidian architecture in Kerala. And the palace provides superb examples of Kerala wood-carving and palace architecture.
Locals say that the temple was originally constructed around 3000 B.C. In the early 1700s, the local maharaja expanded the complex to house a 20-foot-long granite statue of the god Vishnu, who reclines languidly on a serpent complete with a lotus emerging from his navel.
Outside the temple, you'll see a large bathing pool -- called a holy tank -- about the size of a small football field. Traditionally, the holy tank is used by Hindus for bathing and ablutions: a requirement before entering the temple.
Like many temples in Kerala, this one is open only to Hindus. But it's worth the visit just to see the seven-story gopura and to experience the atmosphere of one of the most important temples in south India.
The Horse Palace
You won't want to miss the palace next door. It contains excellent examples of Kerala palace paintings and artifacts from the 18th-century Kerala life of the maharajas of Travancore.
It's called the Horse palace because there are hundreds of carved wooden horses intricately woven into a stunning architectural motif along the outside walls of the palace.
The music room, with its intricate rosewood carvings, is exquisite. The maharaja's poetry room has a view to the adjacent temple complex. And don't miss the ornate throne made of carved Bohemian crystal: It was a gift from a European monarch.
After your tour, your guide will expect a tip. Fifty rupees will be enough.
Take a stroll
Life in India is played out on the streets. And it's worth the stroll to see and experience the endless variety of sights and sounds and people.
So, after you leave the Horse Palace, walk for two blocks and you'll find colorful examples of daily street life: vegetable and fruit stalls; beggars; sari shops; bookstores; and medical shops. And as always, you will find that Kerala people are full of smiles and curiosity. Don't be put off if they stare. If you smile first, they'll smile back.
Recharge at Kovalam Beach
With its gentle offshore breezes and calming views of the Arabian Sea, Kovalam Beach is where I like to find a hotel in the area, rather than in Trivandrum. It's a perfect way to recharge after a day of sightseeing.
Hotels include:
** Somatheeram Ayurvedic Beach Resort, www.somatheeram.com.
** Ashok Beach Resort, located on a sprawling piece of land overlooking the Arabian Sea.
** Rockholm, a mid-range hotel with a private beach and a lighthouse. A room without air-conditioning is comfortable in December and January, and you'll hear waves crash on the beach all night.
Information: www.kovalam.com
'Baby Bombay'
About 120 miles north is the city of Kochi. Known by locals as "Baby Bombay," Kochi is, if nothing else, a city about business. And, compared with Trivandrum, Kochi is positively cosmopolitan.
Kochi is also one of India's primary ports and is home to the southern naval command. And it's India's center for the spice trade, rubber and coconut industries.
But the real treat is on Willingdon Island, just across the harbor. Home to the historic sites of Fort Cochin and Matancherry, you can stroll the narrow lanes of Jewtown (yes, that's the real name), pungent with the aroma of pepper, cinnamon and cardamom.
Even today, there are spice traders working out of dilapidated 300-year-old buildings constructed by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British.
Fort Cochin is where Vasco de Gama came in the 1600s; where Jews settled more than 500 years ago; and where the Dutch and the British had trading posts at the end of the colonial period.
If you see nothing else, visit St. Francis Church, the old synagogue and Matancherry Palace. These three historic sites provide excellent examples of the history of Kochi.
The Portuguese built St. Francis Church in 1503. It has an impressive facade with unique architectural elements and a simple, dignified interior. The design of this church influenced the architecture of Christian churches throughout Kerala for centuries.
Icons of Kerala
About a block away from St. Francis, are the famous Chinese fishing nets. Chinese traders introduced the nets to Kerala from the court of Kublai Khan, and the nets are still in use today.
I enjoy walking around the old Fort. The atmosphere is full of authentic Kerala vibes: street hawkers selling souvenirs; quaint tobacco stalls; busy limejuice stalls; and food sellers. It's a crowded mix of people, noise, odors and bountiful colors; always in motion and never dull.
Matancherry is home to Jewtown, the synagogue and charming antique shops.
The synagogue is a splendid jewel and, thankfully, it's open to the public. Built in 1568, the it's located on a narrow, quiet dead-end lane flanked by antique shops and spice traders. Today, there are only 20 Jews remaining in Jewtown.
Matancherry Palace, also known as the Dutch Palace, was built in 1555 by the Portuguese and renovated by the Dutch in the 1600s. The murals inside are considered some of the best of Kerala. Don't miss them.
Places to stay and eat around Kochi include:
** Fort Cochin : The Malabar House, Taj Malabar, and Casino Hotel;
** Ernakulam: Le Meridien, the Taj Residency; for food, the Black Pearl restaurant at the Renaissance Hotel (dinner only); Le Meridien (good lunch buffet; karaoke at dinner).
The Western Ghats
For relief from the sultry heat, go to Munnar. Located at 7,000 feet, about 80 miles east of Kochi, this tea-growing region is a verdant area filled with fresh air and cool hillsides covered with manicured tea bushes. It's a wonderful place for hiking and outdoor activities.
The place to stay in Munnar: Club Mahindra, www.clubmahindra.com.
About the author
John Flood, a former Almanac reporter, has lived and worked in Kerala in connection with an Indian software firm.
Kerala: Tips for the traveler
** Guides & maps: The Lonely Planet's "South India," www.lonelyplanet.com.
** Getting there: Singapore Airlines, www.singaporeair.com.
** Travel time: Plan on four days of travel, roundtrip, from San Francisco International Airport.
** Travel cost: $2,300-$2,500 including airfare, hotel and meals, for a 10-day trip.
** What to wear: Summer-weight clothing, sunscreen and mosquito repellant.
** Medical: Check with your doctor about immunizations.
** Visa: A tourist visa is required. Download the form, www.indianconsulate-sf.org.
** Theft: Kerala is usually safe for tourists. Don't leave valuables in your hotel room.
** Terrorism: Kerala's Muslim population is peaceful. Terrorism is not a problem.
Kerala Facts
** Languages: Malayalam, English, Hindi, Tamil
** Religions: Hindu, 60 percent; Muslim, 20 percent; Christian, 20 percent
** Population: 30 million
How to get around:
An air-conditioned taxi is best. Book in advance through a travel agent in Kerala. Auto rickshaws are cheap and plentiful, but understand the fare before you embark.
Cuisine
Rice, coconut milk and coconut oil are used for almost every dish. Seafood is plentiful. Some recommended fare:
** Breakfast: iddli, dosha and chutneys.
** Lunch: traditional Kerala rice lunch served with vegetables and curries.
** Dinner: Try string hoppers, steamed rice noodles and a curry.
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