Food & Drink: 'Tastes, Tales and Traditions' -- New cookbook highlights 70 years of favorite recipes from Allied Arts restaurant Food & Drink: 'Tastes, Tales and Traditions' -- New cookbook highlights 70 years of favorite recipes from Allied Arts restaurant (December 07, 2005)

Palo Alto Auxiliary's publication benefits Packard Children's Hospital

By Jane Knoerle

Almanac Lifestyles Editor

It's their first cookbook in 70 years, but so much more.

"This book is like a legacy for the Auxiliary. It contains recipes from the original volunteers down to present, with emphasis from the 1970s on," says Luisa Pliska of Belmont, co-chair of the cookbook project with Donna Jones of Los Altos.

"Tastes, Tales and Traditions," featuring recipes of dishes served at Allied Arts restaurant, is a project of the Palo Alto Auxiliary to Lucile Salter Packard Children's Hospital. All profits from the cookbook will be donated to the hospital.

The hard-cover book spans the decades, recording the history of Allied Arts, along with hundreds of recipes. Illustrated with paintings of the guild's Spanish-style architecture and gardens by artist Carolyn Hofstetter, it is handsome enough to grace a coffee table.

Having lunch at Allied Arts has been part of Peninsula social life for more than 70 years. The restaurant has been operated by the Palo Alto Auxiliary, which was established to raise funds for convalescing children, since 1932. When Allied Arts Guild owners Gardner and Delight Merner asked the members if they would be interested in serving lunch at the guild, auxiliary members saw it as a way to raise money for their charity.

There was no kitchen at Allied Arts, so members prepared meals in their homes. On the first day of business, they served eight guests and earned $6. In those early days, serving 20 guests was a big deal. By contrast, in 2001, the last year before the restaurant was closed for renovation, it hosted 27,000 guests.

Through the years, Allied Arts restaurant developed many traditions. There were fashion shows, teas, bridal showers, wedding receptions. Christmas wasn't complete without tea or lunch at Allied Arts, and kids looked forward to "Bunny Days," when they had lunch with the Easter Bunny.

Many fond memories are included in the cookbook. Take the early days when guests had lunch on the outside terrace. People loved eating there so much they didn't seem to mind wisteria petals and caterpillars falling into their lunch. Eventually the terrace was enclosed with glass to keep the luncheon plates free of bugs while keeping the spectacular view.

Then there's the time a server accidentally dropped a roll into the crown of a guest's "picture" hat and had to gingerly retrieve it.

Perhaps the most memorable wedding reception at the restaurant followed the wedding that never was. When guests arrived at the church, there was a note on the door saying the wedding had been canceled; however, there would be a reception at Allied Arts. The father of the bride had already paid for the reception and was determined the show would go on.

Allied Arts received a mention in the late Herb Caen's column in the Chronicle when he noted that the women who served afternoon tea called themselves the "tea bags." Afternoon teas were discontinued in 1980, although a Christmas tea and Valentine's Day tea are still popular.

Putting together a cookbook was not only a nostalgia trip for auxiliary members, it was a way to keep the membership together when Allied Arts was closed for renovation in 2002. The restaurant reopened October 1, 2004.

"The women who volunteered wanted to keep active. In April 2002, a few of us met and decided to do a cookbook," Ms. Pliska explains.

To help them with the project, Ms. Pliska and Ms. Jones, together with members Joan Heye, Mary Hicks and Gail Sachs, flew to Nashville, Tennessee, to attend a three-day cookbook workshop put on by Favorite Recipes Press. The workshop was attended by hundreds of women interested in putting out a community cookbook.

Back home, thousands of recipes, printed on index cards, had to be evaluated. Of those, 365 were chosen for testing. Then the recipes had to be reduced from restaurant size to home size. "That was a labor of love," Ms. Pliska says.

Fifty-eight women volunteered to be testers at home. Each week recipes were sent in batches to team leaders, who then e-mailed them to their volunteers. In the end, 145 recipes were chosen.

"Every week a tasting luncheon was held. I gained nine pounds (on the project)," Ms. Pliska says. Towards the end of the project, when she asked her husband what he would like for dinner, he said, "Just give me something I don't have to evaluate."

Volunteers also interviewed members for personal stories, chose photos, helped with design, and offered professional services.

The book, which is divided into chapters, has added segments on such popular events as Valentine's Day Tea, Bunny Days and Mother's Day Luncheon, and includes the menus served.

Many of the photos of Allied Arts, including those of its frescos and murals, were taken by auxiliary member Shirlee Stites. The floral headers that grace each page of the cookbook were originally sketched by member Stephanie Wood-Smith, with final drawings by Barbara Ball of Nashville. Ms. Woods-Smith also created the female chef icon that signals cooking tips.

"Tastes, Tales and Traditions" is available for $30 at Allied Arts or through the Palo Alto Auxiliary. The restaurant is open from noon to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday. For reservations or to order a book, call 324-2588.

The following are recipes from "Tastes, Tales, and Traditions."
Hungarian spread

This spread is served at the holiday luncheons. 8 oz. cream cheese, softened 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter 4 oz. crumbled feta cheese 1/4 cup sour cream 1/4 cup chopped green onions 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon caraway seeds 2 teaspoons Hungarian paprika Additional sour cream or milk

Beat cream cheese and butter in a large mixing bowl until smooth. Add feta cheese, sour cream, green onions, mustard, paprika and caraway seeds and mix well. Thin with sour cream or milk to reach a spreading consistency. Serve at room temperature with crackers, rye bread, or melba toast.
Shrimp and capellini salad

A bride's favorite for the wedding buffet, this salad has been served at the restaurant since 1988. 3/4 cup mayonnaise 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 lb. peeled, cooked salad shrimp 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1 10 oz package capellini, broken into thirds 1-1/2 cups minced celery 1/2 cup sliced green onions 1/2 cup bottled or homemade Italian salad dressing 5 oz. frozen petite peas, thawed and drained Salt and pepper to taste Chilled salad greens Fresh chopped parsley to taste

Combine mayonnaise, 1/4 cup lemon juice and cheese in a small bowl and mix well. Chill, covered, until serving time. Combine shrimp and 1/4 cup lemon juice in small bowl. Marinate for 20 minutes. Cook capellini using package directions, drain and rinse. Place shrimp in a large bowl, reserving 5 for garnish. Add pasta, celery, green onions and salad dressing and toss to combine. Marinate in the refrigerator 2 or 3 hours, or preferably overnight.

Add peas and mayonnaise to shrimp and toss. Add salt and pepper. Serve on platter lined with chilled salad greens. Garnish top with the reserved shrimp and freshly chopped parsley.

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