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Ann's Coffee Shop
It's a Menlo Park landmark that serves up a slice of nostalgia along with your pie

by Jane Knoerle

In downtown Menlo Park you can dine on oysters and escargot, sushi and sashimi, pastries and profiteroles, but there's only one place that features creamed tuna on toast.

That would be Ann's Coffee Shop, which has been serving Menlo Park since 1946. Ann's has gone through several ownership changes since Ann Gilbert started the business. Pete Pappas, who has been in the restaurant business for 50 years, bought the place in 1992. His son, Nick, is general manager and cousin Danny Kevetos runs the kitchen in back.

Eddie Mejia, who worked at the original Ann's and is still there after 40 years, shows up at 6:30 a.m. to start soups of the day, fix the pot roast and bake pies. He makes five varieties from scratch, including a luscious coconut cream, peach, and apple — made with fresh apples. During the holidays, he makes mince pies. Come spring, it's time for rhubarb pie. Folks rave about the rhubarb pie, even those who say they don't like rhubarb.

To walk into Ann's is a step back in time. It's 1950, when coffee shops were on every corner. Diners sit at the Formica counter or in high-backed orange vinyl booths that overlook busy Santa Cruz Avenue. The walls are adorned with huge paintings of animals, among other things, that echo the yellow, orange and brown color theme. Nobody knows their origin. They've been there since Mr. Pappas bought the place.

Nick Pappas presides at the cash register, where credit cards are not accepted. He schmoozes with the customers, many of whom are regulars. "We have some who come in every day, even twice a day," says Mr. Pappas. "One lady comes in at 11:20 a.m. every day. On Thursday, she always orders spaghetti to take home."

Nick's godfather, George Pappas, also presides at the cash register.

The bright orange menu holds no surprises. Entrees are roast pork on Monday, corned beef and cabbage on Tuesday, meatloaf on Wednesday, leg of lamb on Thursday and Saturday, spaghetti on Thursday, baked hash and creamed tuna on toast on Friday, and roast turkey with dressing on Saturday. The menu has remained the same since Mr. Pappas took over the restaurant.

Ann's is open for breakfast and lunch Monday through Saturday. Breakfast is served all day. Saturday is the busiest day of the week. "It's crazy in here," says Nick.

Despite the craziness, the longtime servers are friendly and efficient. A recent lunch order arrived in five minutes and Rosalie Sanchez, our waitress, came by to refill my coffee cup frequently.

A coffee shop isn't really about coffee. For that, walk down a couple of blocks to Peet's. The coffee at Ann's is served in classic thick white china cups. No lattes or espresso here. It's good coffee like your mom used to make when Maxwell House Coffee sold for 69 cents a pound. At Ann's, a cup sells for $1.75.

On a recent visit I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich with tomato ($5.85). It came with a choice of potato salad, cole slaw, green salad, Jello or potato chips. The sandwich was tasty — plain old American cheese with lots of tomato slices on rye bread.

On a later visit, I had the hot turkey sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy ($8.50). It was real turkey and there was lots of it. The pale gravy was good, but a dash of Kitchen Bouquet would have given it a more appealing color.

My companion ordered the cheese omelet, which was fine, but the best part was the side of crispy hash brown potatoes. They were grilled to a golden brown and I helped her finish every bite.

The mince pie was fine, with a thin, flaky crust and rich filling. Regulars know that Ann's is one of the few places left where you can order mince pie.

When he's not too busy, Nick Pappas likes to make the milkshakes ($4.25). "The thicker, the better," he says. They come in chocolate, vanilla and strawberry. For $4.50 you can have a banana shake: same ingredients, with a whole banana added.

The menu also includes the soup of the day, salads, sandwich plates, cold sandwiches, lo-cal plates and desserts. How long has it been since you've seen a lo-cal plate featuring a jumbo hamburger patty with cottage cheese and tomato ($7.25)?

Many of the shops that once lined Santa Cruz Avenue are gone, replaced by chi-chi boutiques and upscale restaurants. Old-timers recall Sprouse-Reitz five-and-dime, Stevens Fabrics, Consumer Market, Clifford's Drugs, Pink Pastry Shop, Harry's Juvenile and the Children's Bootery. Ann's, Menlo Florist (next door), and Flegel's are all businesses that have passed the 50-year mark.

Drop in Ann's early in the morning and you'll see old cronies who get together for coffee and conversation. At lunch, you might sit next to women who have known each other since school days at St. Joseph's. On Saturday, catch the dad who is taking the kids out for breakfast.

Ann's: It's a piece of Americana, Menlo Park-style.Ann's Coffee Shop is located at 772 Santa Cruz Ave., in Menlo Park. It is open Monday through Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Telephone: 322-0043.