Going global: Artful blend of cuisines makes it a small world after all at Ariel's in Menlo Park

By JANE KNOERLE

It's hard to believe Patrick Cassata, chef at Ariel, hails from Chicago.

Ariel is the new Menlo Park restaurant featuring "global fusion cuisine," with such entrees as marinated tofu in rice paper, roasted peppers with creole bean sauce, and potato-wrapped Chilean sea bass with mixed bean cake and candied lemon tamari mojo (sauce) -- combinations created with the restaurant's owner, Ruth Ling.

These would not seem to be likely choices for Chicagoans raised on meat and potatoes, but Chef Cassata now is cooking for the Menlo Park and Atherton cutting-edge crowd, and business is good.

The idea of "global fusion cuisine" is to combine ingredients from several cuisines. This takes skill. Results can range from marvelous to weird.

Chef Cassata's inspiration is mostly Latin-Caribbean, with a sprinkling of Vietnamese and Thai. Ariel's owner Ruth Ling grew up in Taiwan. So between the two of them, "global fusion" seems a natural.

But is the food good? After dining at Ariel twice, I'd say yes. My first dinner was lamb escebeche ($20), with roasted garlic flan, a dab of miso-glazed daikon (radish) and noodle-cut golden beets. The lamb was delicious, but I couldn't figure out what the beets were until I asked the waiter. I would have preferred real noodles.

My dinner companion thought the Chilean sea bass ($18) was fine. We both enjoyed the Ariel salad with balsamic vinaigrette and pine nuts, and foccacia served with whipped honey butter with chipotle chili.

House-made desserts, especially "banana bonanza" with roasted banana ice cream, banana mousse and caramelized bananas, are excellent. Next time I'll try bread pudding with caramel broth and cinnamon cream.

Luncheon dishes include tomato tower and asparagus salad ($9) with lemon-thyme vinaigrette and my choice, grilled salmon ($9), on a bed of pad thai, with braised leek and fresh pineapple. Photographer Carol Ivie liked the salad -- cool and refreshing on a hot day. My salmon was fine; however, I found the pineapple wedge, still in its skin, hard to eat.

Open only since February, Ariel already has devoted regulars, including local sports celebrities and Silicon Valley CEOs. Much of its popularity is due to owner Ruth Ling's warm personality. She's on hand every night to welcome customers and schmooze with them. "I love it here in Menlo Park," she says. "The customers, they treat me so nicely, like a little girl."

Ms. Ling has 10 years of experience in the food business. She worked in a Chinese restaurant for her "auntie," doing everything from busing to waiting on tables. She was part owner of a Japanese restaurant, even did a stint as cashier at World Wraps in Palo Alto. "I want to learn everything I can from others," she says.

Customers are also helpful, letting her know likes and dislikes in dishes, including such "no-no's" as mu shu rabbit. She's also learning about wine from patrons who appreciate a good bottle of wine with dinner.

Located on the site of the former La Luna bistro, Ariel, named for Ms. Ling's 6-year-old daughter, is a cozy place for dinner. Seating 50, its ochre walls and high sconces set with four silver buckets of long-stemmed roses add to the ambience.

Ms. Ling will celebrate her 34th birthday on Tuesday, Aug. 18, at the restaurant, where she's on board six days a week. She says of her customers, "Come to Ariel and share champagne with me that day."