Rush to the crush: Thomas Fogarty Winery prepares for the harvest Rush to the crush: Thomas Fogarty Winery prepares for the harvest (September 18, 2002)

By Jane Knoerle

The vines are heavy with ripening grapes at Thomas Fogarty Winery high in the Portola Valley hills. "We will be picking estate fruit, starting the first or second week of October; the chardonnay by the end of October," says Michael Martella, who has been the winemaker at Fogarty Winery since its inception as a commercial venture in 1981. The crush, high point of the year in any winery, is almost here.

Mr. Martella will soon start testing the grapes for their sugar content.

The time of harvest also depends on what the grapes taste like, acid content, and what the vines look like. Are the seeds mature, is the stem turning brown? "Sometimes the vines seem to be screaming, 'Get this off me,' " says Mr. Martella with a laugh.

"We've had a couple close calls where we've had to rush and pick the grapes before the rains," says Mr. Martella, who adds that "berries" are much more susceptible to damage as they mature.

"Things are shaping up really nice, but it can change in two days," he says.

Twenty-five acres of varietals are planted on the 350-acre estate; the grapes include chardonnay and pinot noir and, on smaller lots, merlot and sangiovese. The winery property sits on Skyline Boulevard at a 2,000-foot elevation.

"This is ideal for growing pinot noir and chardonnay," says Mr. Martella. "The eastern slopes give great exposure. We have cool weather, but there is so much light. It bounces off the fog below."

What began as a hobby for cardiovascular surgeon and inventor Dr. Thomas Fogarty in the 1970s is now a winery with an international reputation, a link in the chain of Santa Cruz Mountain wineries once known as the Chaine d'Or (chain of gold).

Wine producing in the Santa Cruz Mountains dates back to the 1860s, when more than 1,000 acres of commercial vineyards existed on the east-facing slopes. Prohibition destroyed the wine industry for many years. It recovered in the 1940s, and today there are nearly 50 family-owned wineries in the region, which extends from Half Moon Bay in the north to Mount Madonna in the south.

Acquiring his own land in Portola Valley, Dr. Fogarty pressed his first barrel (24 cases) of wine in 1975 from purchased zinfandel grapes. He chose zinfandel because "it's easy to make and the grapes are easy to get."

Was the wine a success? "We drank it," he says with a laugh.

The winery's first vines were planted on his Portola Valley property the next year. Portola Valley friends, such as Oz Pieper and the late Tennessee Ernie Ford, pitched in to help.

Jan Pieper tells the story of friends planting grapes when Dr. Fogarty was called away to the hospital. Plot No. 1 is still named Albutom (All but Tom) because he wasn't there to take part.

Thomas Fogarty Winery was established as a commercial winery in 1981 "after a rather tumultuous experience with the town delayed the project two years," he says.

The family-owned winery has grown to include a tasting room and an entertainment complex, which can accommodate up to 220 guests and is popular for weddings and corporate events. The redwood reception facilities extend down the mountain side on three separate levels, each with spectacular views.

There is a copper-roofed 4,000-square-foot Pavilion overlooking the chardonnay vineyard. The redwood and glass Hill House can be used all year round and the adjoining terrace can be closed off with glass panels in cooler weather.

The cabin, where the first barrel of wine was made, has been remodeled into the redwood room, popular for private parties or small weddings.

In today's competitive market, events are essential to marketing the wine, says Dr. Fogarty. "We depend on direct sales," he says.

The tasting room, which is open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Sunday, also introduces visitors to Fogarty wines, which include estate chardonnay, estate pinot noir, estate merlot, gewurztraminer and cabernet sauvignon. Estate means the grapes (or berries, as they're called in the trade) are grown on the property.

Gewurztraminer and cabernet sauvignon are made from grapes acquired from other vineyards.

Dr. Fogarty's barrel of zinfandel more than 20 years ago has grown to 14,000 cases of wine a year; however, that still qualifies the enterprise as a boutique winery. For example, E&J Gallo produced 55 million cases last year.

The winery has won so many awards that first-place ribbons and plaques are everywhere. Mr. Martella is proud of the fact that their gewurztraminer was named best white wine out of 3,000 wines in the 2001 San Francisco International Wine Competition. Second place went to a white wine from the Rhone Valley in France. "The award usually goes to a chardonnay," he says.

Prize-winning wines, a 350-acre estate with an elegant entertainment complex, and international acclaim. Isn't this a far cry from the cabin where Dr. Fogarty made his first wine? "It's turned out pretty much as I envisioned it," he says.