A visit with Thomas Keller: Famed French Laundry chef touts his new cookbook at Kepler's A visit with Thomas Keller: Famed French Laundry chef touts his new cookbook at Kepler's (December 01, 2004)

By Jane Knoerle

Almanac Lifestyles Editor

"Bistro cooking is my favorite food. There's nothing I like better than roast chicken and a salad of fresh lettuces with a simple vinaigrette," celebrity chef Thomas Keller told his audience at Kepler's, where on November 10 he was promoting his latest cookbook, "Bouchon," (Workman Publishing $50) written with Jeffrey Cerciello.

Bouchon is also the name of the restaurant Mr. Keller opened in Yountville six years ago, after gaining fame as the chef of The French Laundry.

Mr. Keller says he created Bouchon to have some place to go after work. "There's nothing open past 9:30 p.m. in the rest of the valley. It's become a gathering place for locals," he said.

Bouchon (means bottle stopper) offers classic bistro dishes, such as steak frites, roasted chicken, quiche, brandade (puree made with salt cod), pot de creme and profiteroles. But don't call it a bistro. "Bistro no longer defines. Now there are Italian bistros and Chinese bistros," he said.

Jeffrey Cerciello is the actual chef at Bouchon and co-author of the cookbook, but Mr. Keller's celebrity status is what draws a crowd and sells books. More than 100 fans gathered to hear him at Kepler's.

His first words to the audience were: "Don't ask me about getting reservations at The French Laundry." (Getting a reservation at his world-famous restaurant, where the nine-course tasting menu costs $150, is akin to finding the Holy Grail.)

Mr. Keller had no formal education as a chef. Born in Southern California and later moving to Florida, he began his culinary career as a teenager, working in a Palm Beach restaurant managed by his mother.

He first learned French cooking at La Rive Restaurant in the Hudson River Valley. He went to France in 1983 to apprentice in the kitchens of Guy Savoy, Michael Pasquet, Gerald Besson and Taillevent.

He returned to New York City, where he worked at La Reserve and Restaurant Raphael before opening his first restaurant, Rakel, in 1986.

After five years in Los Angeles, he bought The French Laundry in Yountville in 1994. His goal was to create a three-star country French restaurant in the Napa Valley. Today his empire also includes Per Se, which he opened to much fanfare this year in New York City, and Bouchon in Las Vegas.

"I don't consider myself a celebrity chef," says Mr. Keller. "The whole celebrity chef business is promoted by the media. I just go to work every day."

While the rich and famous are dining on foie gras and champagne in his restaurants, it's a different story behind the scenes. "I get up at 8 a.m., have a bowl of oatmeal and a couple cups of coffee and go to work. We all eat dinner together at 4:30 p.m. and I go home about 1 a.m."

At home he cooks on a four-burner Roper range. There are no fancy stainless steel appliances.

Asked his favorite restaurant, he named the Four Seasons in New York City. "After being in business 35 years, it's still ideal. I get goose bumps when I go there." His goal is to replicate those standards at Per Se.

His hero? The famous French chef, the late Fernand Point. Called the "father of nouvelle cuisine," Mr. Point opened three-star Restaurant de la Pyramide in Lyon, France, when he was 26. He was a mentor and teacher to Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel and Jean and Pierre Troisgros.

Just to prove the life of a "celebrity chef" isn't all champagne and caviar, Mr. Keller told his audience he was starving, hadn't had a chance to eat all day, and would love to stop for a In-and-Out burger.

To those who bought his cookbook, he said, "Learn to make the lemon tart, that's a benchmark of a great bistro. Salad, roast chicken, and a lemon tart. Start with these."

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