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Editor’s note: After this article’s publication, Koichi Baba said he and his landlord came to an agreement to extend Kanpai Sushi’s lease. The restaurant will no longer permanently close May 24, he said.
After about a decade in Palo Alto, Kanpai Sushi will have its final day of service May 24. Despite losing its lease, Kanpai isn’t permanently closing, said owner Koichi Baba, as the sushi spot will be merging with its sister restaurant in Portola Valley.
Beginning June 2, Koma Sushi in Ladera Country Shopper will have a revamped menu featuring favorites from Kanpai’s menu, and customers can expect to see familiar faces of the Kanpai staff. While the name Koma Sushi will remain, expect the menu to feature “more authentic Japanese appetizers and small dishes” from Kanpai’s menu, including broiled miso-marinated black cod and lamb chop with wasabi mayo and unagi sauce, Baba said. He also plans to introduce a “more traditional Japanese style” omakase five-course prix fixe option to Koma.
Kanpai Sushi’s dragon roll has shrimp tempura and avocado inside and is topped with eel, in Palo Alto on Sept. 7, 2021. Photo by Magali Gauthier. 
A platter of Amaebi, tuna, albacore, yellowtail tuna, salmon, surf clam, scallop, and squid sashimi, served with fried Amaebi heads on a bed of shredded daikon radish, at Kanpai Sushi in Palo Alto on Sept. 7, 2021. Photo by Magali Gauthier. 
Kanpai Sushi’s homemade tamago in Palo Alto on Sept. 7, 2021. Photo by Magali Gauthier.
This isn’t the first time Baba had to merge his restaurants due to losing his lease. In 2021, he was forced to close Koma Sushi in Menlo Park, merging the restaurant with Palo Alto’s Kanpai Sushi.
Koma Sushi has a history spanning back to 1977, when founder Riyoko Lingerfelt opened the original restaurant. Baba, who had been an exchange student in the U.S. twice, was living in Tokyo and knew about the restaurant from a mutual friend. Excited to return to the U.S., he took a job at Koma Sushi, taking over the business when Lingerfelt was ready to retire in 1988. He later would expand the restaurant to Menlo Park, where it stayed for two decades before losing its lease.
During his 40 year career in Bay Area Japanese restaurants, Baba has noticed a shift in consumer dining habits. Decades ago, about half of the customers would order kitchen food, like tempura, teriyaki and sukiyaki, as their entree and the other half would order sushi, he noted. More recently, he estimates more than 70% of customers order sushi as an entree and kitchen food as a side order.
When asked what differentiates his sushi restaurants from others in the area, Baba posits the authenticity of his food.
“We are one of the few Japanese-owned Japanese restaurants in the Bay Area. I would say more than 90% of the Japanese restaurants now are operated by non-Japanese owners,” he said. “The way we cook and the way we serve is very traditional Japanese.”
The Palo Alto resident is open to opening more Japanese restaurants, if the opportunity presents itself, but for now, he’s content with pairing down the scale to just one.
“The good thing is that I can stay at one place in Portola (Valley) every day,” he said. “I can greet our regular customers every time they come in. Sometimes they come in and they miss me … Now I am able to meet with them every day. That’s something that I am looking forward to.”
Baba said he hopes to see his Palo Alto regulars come dine at Koma Sushi and looks forward to becoming more involved in the Portola Valley community.
Koma Sushi, 3130 Alpine Road, Portola Valley; 650-367-6547. Open Monday to Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30-8 p.m., Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30-8:30 p.m. and Saturday from 4:30-8:30 p.m.
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