| Welcome to our tree column, “Ask your local arborist.” Each month, arborists from the Davey Tree Expert Company in Menlo Park discuss a tree-related topic from general care and planting tips to how trees can impact your property. If you have a tree-related question or an idea for a topic to discuss, email lifestyle@embarcaderopublishing.com or post in the comments section at the end of this column. |
With spring right around the corner, this is typically the time of year I receive questions about planting or transplanting trees as people start focusing on getting their landscapes ready for the summer.
Planting or moving trees requires careful timing to ensure they will successfully establish themselves and grow. It’s best to transplant trees during their dormant season — typically from late fall to early spring. During this time, the tree is not actively growing, reducing the risk of transplant shock. The weather also tends to be cooler and wetter, providing moist solid conditions, which is vital for trees to establish a strong root system for their growth and survival before the heat of summer.
In our mild climate, the optimal period for planting or transplanting most trees is during October through March.
A step-by-step guide
SMALL TREES
For transplanting purposes, a small tree is any tree that has a trunk diameter of 2 inches or less. To get a good read on diameter, wrap measuring tape around the trunk 4 feet from the ground, pinpoint the circumference in inches and then divide that by 3.14.
Dial 881. Or, go to call811.com. This service helps you locate underground utilities to ensure you’re planting the tree in the right place.
Figure out root ball size. For small trees, the width of the root ball should be around 8 to 12 inches wide for each inch of trunk diameter. For example, a tree that’s 1 1/2 inches in diameter needs a root ball that’s 12 to 18 inches wide. But wait! Before you uproot the tree, complete steps 3 and 4.
Water the soil. Water 1 or 2 days before you transplant — that’ll make the process much smoother.
Dig a new home. Once you’ve picked the right place to plant, dig a hole that’s 2 or 3 times the width of the root ball and 1 or 2 inches deeper than the height of the root ball. It’s important to have the new planting site ready to go so you limit the amount of time the tree’s roots are exposed. (Keep these measurements in mind when finding a new spot for your tree!)
Trench around tree roots. With a sharp spade, dig a circle around tree roots to create a root ball that’s the width you calculated in step 2. Dig down 1 to 2 feet, and then cut under the roots to round out the root ball.
Transport the tree. Here’s where you’ll really want to take your time (and where it would be good to have an extra pair of hands.) Keeping the root ball secure is essential to the tree’s survival. To do that, cut a piece of burlap that’s large enough to cover the entire root ball. Then, carefully tip the root ball onto one side, and put the burlap in the hole. Roll the root ball onto the burlap, wrap it and secure it with twine. Lift the tree out of the hole from the bottom, making sure not to lift by the trunk. Then, gently carry the tree to the new planting spot.
Plant the tree. Place the tree in its new hole with the top of the root ball just slightly (no more than an inch or two) above ground level. When the tree is in place, cut and remove the burlap and twine, and then fill the hole with soil from the original planting site.
Protect from transplant shock. The tree is set, but your job is not quite done. Water the tree thoroughly right after transplanting, and then follow these steps to protect your tree from the stress of transplant shock.
LARGE TREES
Transplanting a large tree is pretty similar to the procedure for a small one. But, it’s best to not try to tackle this project on your own. Here’s why: Sharp spades that can cut through thin and small tree roots might not work for large roots. Usually, you need heavy-duty equipment to dig and lift large trees.Root balls on large trees can weigh a lot. They’re much harder to pick up and carefully place in a new hole.One of the most important parts of the transplanting process is keeping a tree’s root ball intact. That’s much harder to do with large trees, and roots can easily get damaged in the shuffle.Trees with trunks larger than 2 inches in diameter should be transplanted by a professional arborist. Arborists will have the right tools and experience to safely get your tree from point A to point B.
Planting or moving trees is all about timing and care. By working with the natural rhythm of the seasons and giving trees the attention they need, you can set them up for long-term health and growth. With the right approach, your landscape will thrive for years to come.
Transplanting tips
Here are some best practices for increasing the success rate of transplanting trees.
Transplant during dormancy
Make sure your trees are dormant: This means, in the fall, they have dropped all of their leaves, or in the spring, there are no new buds on the branches.
Properly prepare
Before moving a tree, ensure it is well-watered, and prune any dead or damaged branches. Dig a wide root ball to preserve as much of the root system as possible, and make sure to keep the roots moist.
Provide post-transplant care
After transplanting, provide regular watering, especially during dry spells, and mulch to retain soil moisture. Protect the tree from pests and diseases to ensure successful establishment.
Know your tree species
Some trees are more amendable to transplanting due to their root structures and adaptability. Others are much more challenging.
Trees commonly transplanted
- Cedar trees: Known for their durability and use in privacy hedges, cedars have a shallow, fibrous root system that spreads wide, making them suitable for transplantation.
- Cherry trees: Valued for their beautiful spring blossoms, cherry trees have a shallow and wide-spreading root system, which makes them relatively easy to transplant when young.
- Birch trees: With distinctive bark and delicate foliage, birch trees have shallow, fibrous roots that spread wide, facilitating transplantation.
Trees that are difficult to transplant
- Trees with a long, dominant vertical root (taproot) can be difficult to transplant because they require more digging. Species like walnut, pecan, pine and large blue spruce, for example, can be challenging and often require professional assistance.
- Large trees typically have root balls that can weigh a lot and require heavy-duty equipment to dig and lift, making them much harder to pick up and relocate. Hickory, white oak and mature cedar trees, for example, can be challenging due to their size and extensive root systems.
- Trees that are slow to establish new roots can be difficult to transplant, including pine, walnut and oak trees.
George Reno is a local arborist at The Davey Tree Expert Company in Menlo Park, which serves communities on the Peninsula, including Menlo Park, Atherton, Palo Alto and Redwood City. Reno can be reached at 866-923-5658.
