Howard Bulka finally gave in. Several weeks ago he revamped the menu of his Marche restaurant in downtown Menlo Park.
Mr. Bulka had relied on a French-fashioned menu with international twists, but most of his patrons seemed to favor something more basic.
Finally, he said, “I realized about 70 percent of the meals we are serving are steaks. So, I addressed it.”
The new menu consists of six principal offerings, of which half are steaks. Even so, Mr. Bulka has infused the plates with Asian and South American nuances. In addition, the restaurant recently installed a $10,000 Montague broiler to make the best possible steaks. It’s that kind of commitment to quality that has been Mr. Bulka’s gastronomic signature for years.
Born in Chicago but reared in west Los Angeles, Mr. Bulka came north to study creative writing at San Francisco State. One day he decided to become a chef instead, and that ignited a career that took him from Europe to Asia.
He did a turn in Los Angeles, studied under Paul Boucouse and the late chef Alain Chapel in France, worked a wok line in Hong Kong, and did a stint as executive chef at the Mandarin Hotel’s acclaimed Silks in San Francisco. Mr. Bulka worked the next decade as a restaurant consultant. The wanderlust eventually subsided, and, in late 2001, he and business partner Lee Isgur opened Marche.
Designed by Terry Hunzinger of Seattle, Marche is quietly elegant, contemporary and understated. Muted yellows, earthy tans and browns add to the sophisticated expression. Dark wood plantation blinds shelter diners from Santa Cruz Avenue. Three oversized lampshades cast a warm glow to the interior.
There are both tables and padded booths as well as a separate Chef’s Room that seats 10, and a banquet room for larger parties. Both the Chef’s Room and the booths allow glassed-off peeks into the active kitchen. White linens, fresh roses and candles complete the decor. It is a soothing, nurturing space to dine.
Before the appetizers arrived, the chef sent an amuse bouche of gruyere cheese-infused pastries to whet our appetites. For starters, the house-cured Arctic char ($14) was a tempting version of gravlax. Gravlax is a Swedish invention of salmon cured in sugar, salt and dill, thin sliced and served cold. Marche presented it with a cornmeal blini, dill creme fraiche, minced red onion and sieved egg.
I liked the green garlic soup ($11), its silky texture born of pureed white rice. It was topped with house-made chorizo, crispy tortilla strips and queso Cotija, a semi-hard cow’s cheese from Mexico. My sole complaint was that the spoon was too short for the bowl and kept sliding into the soup. I had problems managing the utensils of several dishes, which were too awkward for some of the oddly shaped plates.
The Sweet Gem Louis Salad ($12) was satisfying. Sweet Dungeness crab, chopped egg and golden beets were dressed in a sublime Louis dressing. The house-made dressing bore no relation whatsoever to the insipid fish house versions.
For main courses, the pan-roasted halibut ($28) was delicious. Thick and fleshy, the fish was just cooked through. Butterball potatoes, leeks and cipollini onions accompanied. A delightful oyster cream sauce of slow-cooked white wine, shallots and pureed oysters topped the dish. Mr. Bulka likens the sauce to a creamy leek fondue.
The chicken “al Mattone” ($25) is a Tuscan method of cooking chicken under a brick. The quartered, bone-in chicken was slow cooked without losing juices. Marche served the chicken on rustic bruschetta and complemented it with a red pepper and leek relish of currants, pine nuts and sherry wine vinegar with a drizzle of olive oil and lemon zest.
The Wagyu flat iron steak ($26) was melt-in-your-mouth tender. Wagyu is an American-styled Kobe beef; the word “Wagyu” means “Japanese cow.” In the U.S., Wagyu have been cross-bred with Angus to increase their heartiness. The beef is noted for its marbling, juiciness and tenderness.
Marche recommended the meat be served rare but my companion wanted hers well done, which did not compromise flavor or tenderness. The steak was served with stir-fried matchstick vegetables.
The New York steak ($36) was equally delectable. Thick, marbled and tender, the steak was grilled to my specifications. Chimichurri — a thick Argentinean sauce of olive oil, herbs, parsley, garlic, red wine vinegar, shallots and jalapeno pepper — accompanied.
Side dishes are appealing and recommended, as main dishes don’t come with a lot of frills. My favorite was the trio of pureed vegetables: butternut squash, English pea and cauliflower with curry oil. It was plenty for two.
The delta asparagus was fat and sweet, peeled and boiled to order. The asparagus was flecked with house-made bacon chunks and topped with a quail egg. Also delicious was the bucket of pommes frites. All sides are $6.
Desserts ($10) did not disappoint. The buttermilk panna cotta on a pineapple banana fritter was light and delicate. The rhubarb and strawberry tart, crusted with walnut streusel and topped with a soft white cheese and lemon chantilly sauce, was fine but undistinguished.
The burnt caramel chocolate pot de creme was exceptional. The thick saucy chocolate custard was topped with chocolate shavings and served with several mouthwatering warm chocolate chip cookies. After dessert, the waiter delivered a plate of miniature brownies with a take-home bag to enjoy on the way or with the next morning’s cafe au lait.
In addition to the regular menu, there is a chef’s tasting menu, four-courses, with many options for $65. When it’s paired with select wines, add $55.
Besides a full bar, Marche offers a stellar, albeit pricey, wine list. Many of the greatest names in winedom are represented. Luscious white Burgundies from Domaine Leflaive and an impressive collection from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti along with outstanding Bordeaux are offered. Excellent labels from California and Oregon abound. Many wines are available by the glass ($9-$17). Corkage fee is $25.
It is an expense-account wine list, but, if you search, you’ll find something to fit your taste buds and pocketbook. The professional wait-staff is happy to assist.
Marche is stylish and pricey. Despite the recent drift towards steaks, the side dishes and accompaniments are still infused with creativity from a master chef. Marche is about the best place in town for that special occasion or that occasional splurge we need from time to time.
Information
Marche is at 898 Santa Cruz Ave. in Menlo Park. It’s open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30-10 p.m. Reservations can be made at 324-9092 or restaurantmarche.com.Most Popular
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